NOTE: This is a living document and will see continued updates and adjustments as time permits.
Of all aspects of axes, one of the most-touted but least-understood concepts is how they balance. One often hears that an axe has “good balance” or “bad balance”, but what does that actually mean? Ultimately, all axes are balanced, but the question lies in how that balance impacts the orientation of the handle and the bit in use.
Shown here is a comparative analysis of a classic American style axe (a Council Tools Velvicut 4lb American Felling Axe) alongside two 1300g (2.89lb) Italian axes by Rinaldi: a Calabria and Trento pattern respectively. The grip point on the handle is represented by a blue dot, the center of gravity by a green dot, and the axle as the red line running through them.
The axle is the axis through which the tool will naturally balance and rotate from, and is always represented as a direct line running from the grip point (wherever that may be) through the center of gravity. When the center of gravity lies external to the body of the object, it can be easily found by suspending the object by two different points along with a plumb line. The object will automatically pivot at the grip point to bring the tool into balance. Make mental note of the position of the plumb line, and grip the tool from another point and take a reading of the plumb line again. Where the two plumb lines would intersect in space is the location of the center of gravity. Knowing these dynamics, it is possible to easily analyze any axe without the need to know specific weights or using formulas or computation of any kind.
When people talk about long bits having head wobble (see Cook et al.) they usually make the mistake of measuring from the eye, when really they should be measuring from the axle. As a result, the influence of bit length is often greatly exaggerated, especially when combined with misunderstandings of the effects of curved vs. straight handles.
An overlay of the Velvicut (red), Calabria (blue) and Trento (green) axe heads, aligned at the edge apex.
Having a deep bit allows for deep notches without glancing your cheeks and minimizes risk of barking the neck of your handle against the mouth of the notch. However, it tends to move the handle off a single axis, and so one must be more mindful of which hand is delivering force and how when grasping under the head before a swing, since it creates a plane (triangulation) rather than a simple line. This can be easily compensated for in technique, but one must be aware of it, and ideally one would make a handle with an offset neck to bring as much of the handle as possible along a single axis. Many shipwright’s adzes exhibit just such a neck offset because their manner of use (a third class lever) made it necessary for clean results. This requires starting with a large piece of wood with good grain orientation to be sufficiently strong, and so more commonly one finds axes with relatively straight handles, even with curved American handles.
Note that many American axes could also do with a little more offset in the neck, and that with off-axis handles a change in the grip point will change the presentation of the bit relative to the stroke. This can actually be used to advantage in certain situations. Gripping higher on the handle will yield an axle that presents the bit more open during the stroke, while gripping it lower will present the bit at a more closed angle.
A Calabria and Velvicut axe with the handles altered for ideal offset.
As another way of phrasing the dynamic, imagine you lopped off the rear face of a sledge hammer to reduce its weight, which leaves the eye now at the rear of the head. It would then need the forward face’s angle adjusted slightly to close its presentation to the target and an offset handle to give it the same handling characteristics it had before (though now with less weight.)
Now that we’ve seen how that dynamic plays out, let’s examine how changing different variables impacts the axle, location of the center of gravity, and orientation of the bit.
In the upper left we have an axe or hatchet of fairly conventional orientation and balance, with a short handle. As before, the grip point is shown in blue, the center of gravity in green, and the axle in red. However, we’ve now added the line running between the heel and toe of the bit in fuchsia to help with visualizing the orientation of the bit with the axle.
In the top center, the bit orientation and grip point are held constant, but the bit has been extended. This shifts the center of gravity forward, which pivots the axle forward along with it. In the top right we have the same extended bit, but the grip point has been changed. Because the extension of the bit took the handle more off-axis, the new axle leads to a more open presentation of the bit. The axe has been rotated to put the axle in vertical orientation to highlight this. If, when the bit was lengthened, the handle had been offset to lay along a single axle, the change in grip point would not have resulted in any change in presentation.
In the bottom left, the axe is identical to the one in the top left, but the handle has been extended, effectively closing the presentation of the bit in use despite the head not having been altered in any way. Lastly, in the bottom center and right the heel of the blade has been moved out and then inward respectively.
Lastly, to illustrate that axes with offset necks are not just some theoretical armchair speculation, here are some actual examples of American axe heads fitted to properly offset handles, image courtesy of Axes by G-pig, and used with permission:
Manufacturing such handles on a mass scale, however, would require much larger pieces of wood for blanks, and most axes that have handmade handles running off-axis are generally made that way because it is more expedient and convenient, or possibly because the maker did not even understand these principles and so did not even realize that an offset would be of benefit.
Fortunately, most axes with off-axis handles have a wide enough neck to provide counter-leverage during the two handed span hold. This counter leverage is only needed for a brief moment at the start of the stroke, and is thereafter unnecessary as the hands converge to a practically singular grip point and a natural balance is almost immediately restored. An offset handle, in most instances, merely allows good technique to not require so much mindfulness and is more automatic or “fool-proof”.
The above show the axle of the tool (red line) and corresponding lever arms (blue lines in center figure) of the tool when used with a sliding upper hand (numbered green dots) and fixed lower hand (blue dot.) As previously, the red dot shows the center of gravity, and when the axle and handle diverge the axis along which the hand is sliding is shown by a green line.
On the left you can see that the axe head is balanced by its large poll, and so a straight handle is an appropriate match, with no imbalances imparting torque on the hand in horizontal blows.
The middle axe has the same profile, but the eye has been shifted to the far rear, causing the center of gravity to shift forward in response. This now causes the handle to run off-axis and we can see the lever arms imparting torque on the axle at different points along its length as the upper hand position changes during a sliding stroke. As the hands converge we can see that the lever arm gets shorter and shorter until it becomes essentially insignificant. As such, the infamous “wobble” of a poll-less axe is mostly imparted at the beginning of the stroke, and–while not the ideal–if bearing this in mind it can be compensated for in technique by applying appropriate counter-torque at the start of the stroke and making the slide as early in the stroke as possible.
The third axe now shows the poll-less head with the handle corrected to bring the main length back along a unified axle. This axe will afford the bit size-to-head-weight advantages of a poll-less axe with mostly equal balance to the polled version. One will note that while the axe will now balance properly, the upper hand cannot go as high on the handle as the straight one without running off-axis again. The handle also is trickier to make than in the case of the other two examples and requires better grain alignment to minimize runout.
In case the previous diagrams have been a little difficult to visualize, this diagram simplifies the relationship by eliminating complicating factors. Rather than an “axe” shaped head, we have a simple long, eyeless bar as if the handle were welded to the solid head. The top view shows us the forces at work when the axe is held horizontal. The intersection of the handle’s trajectory and the centerline of the head is shown by the red circle, and the handle treated as massless. A triangle is placed at the point of rotation to indicate the fulcrum forced by the two-point grip. The two sides of this “teeter-totter” are colored to assist in seeing their relative length, and the lines are copied and shown below the head for a clearer comparison.
In the first figure we see a balanced “T” shape, with mass being equally distributed to either side of the center of gravity, and the handle running directly towards it. This tool is in perfect rotational balance.
In the second figure, the handle has been shifted to one side and the lever arms are now imbalanced, causing the longer end to want to drop. The hollow magenta circle marks the center of gravity and the dotted line indicates where the axe would be rotating from if held by the bottom hand only. With the second hand in play, the forced axle of the red line is where the axe will rotate when held/suspended loosely. However, torque applied along the red line will cause the tool to attempt to rotate around the natural axle of the dotted line.
In the third figure, the handle is now offset to align the handle with the natural axle. The red dotted line shows where the handle had previously run in the second figure. The lever arms are now brought back into balance and the “teeter-totter” is now equalled out again.
Over my years of edged tool use, experimentation, and study, I’ve tried all sorts of items of widely different quality, price, and features. I’m often asked to weigh in on matching a user to a particular tool, and while I’ve often referenced my methodology of tool selection in the process of this match-making process I haven’t written it down formally until now. While this is a “living process” that will continue to see further tweaking and refinement over time, I think it will serve as a handy reference for others, and it’s about time I put it all down in words.
Note that while this method is written with edged tools as the specific focus, the method may be extended equally to most other forms of gear.
Step 1: Defining Your Purpose
The very first stage in selecting the right tool for your purposes is to very clearly identify and define those purposes. What do you want the tool to do? Note that this can even be so superficial a reason as needing to “scratch the buying itch” to a very wide range of diverse and specific tasks. For instance, do you plan on using the knife or tool for slicing? For carving wood? Food preparation? Batoning? Chopping? Do you need all of the functions in one tool, or can they be spread out amongst two or more? If “scratching the itch” what functional gaps do you have in your present arsenal? It may help to write these tasks down as you think about the situations you might face either on purpose or by happenstance when using the tool.
Once those tasks have been identified, it’s time to put them in prioritized order. Think how frequently you’ll be performing each of those tasks, and number them in order of importance. Since different tasks may have conflicting requirements, this will help you determine how much weight to give each task when attempting to balance between them to establish an optimum compromise.
Lastly, consider the environments you’ll be using the tool in. How are you getting the tool there? How are you storing it? Is it for use around the home, or are you carrying it on extended backpacking trip with a lot of other gear? This will help you narrow in on the ideal balance between function and ease of portability/storage.
Step 2: Translating Functions Into Features
The next step is to take each of those tasks and to translate it into features that provide the benefits you’re looking for. Don’t worry yet if some of those characteristics are in direct opposition to one another–take each task individually. For instance, if you plan on skinning large game, a lot of belly to the edge is usually desirable for making long sweeping cuts. If cutting root vegetables like carrots or potatoes a very thin blade is desirable for gliding through the resistant and easily fractured material. For drilling, a centered point that isn’t too delicate is of benefit. If prying, lateral stiffness and toughness are both required. If chopping or batoning, shock resistance must be given consideration. For detailed or precision work a shorter blade and/or a very fine point are often useful. Write down as many specifications as you can think of for each task or purpose.
Do the same for your environmental concerns. Is bigger or smaller better? Heavier or lighter? Is a sheath or edge cover required? If so, what should it be made of and why? What kind of retention method? Carry method?
Step 3: Balancing Your Antipodes
This is where things really start to take shape. Go through your list of features and find any criteria that oppose each other and rewrite them in antipodes (an-TIP-oh-dees) or paired opposites, with the prioritized one of the two listed first. These pairs are your “neither too this, nor too that” groupings and you must consider how to appropriately balance between the two aspects. Each of these antipodes gets 10 “points” you can divide between the two opposing qualities. Assign these points to the pairs in a way that best represents your needs out of the tool and you’ll know the approximate amount of emphasis that each aspect will receive. For instance, you may be looking for a chopping tool for ultralight backpacking, which will result in at least two antipodes: light/heavy and long/short. You may decide that light overall weight is more important than the advantage in use given by greater weight, and choose a 7:3 balance in that respect, choosing to gain back some chopping power by increasing length a little at the expense of the tool being less easy to pack, selecting a 6:4 balance for that pair.
Step 4: Interpret Your Results
Once you’re finished balancing your antipodes, look over your results and try to think of what a tool that meets all of your criteria would look like. If it helps, try reading the criteria aloud as if describing it to someone else. For instance, based on the limited criteria provided as an example in Step 3 above, we might be looking at something like a long handled lightweight tomahawk. If other criteria were added, like the ability to clear vegetation and brush, the description might more resemble a tip-weighted machete. Once you’ve formed a mental image of the sort of tool you’re looking for (or drawn a sketch if you prefer) we’re ready for the next step.
Step 5: Price vs. Performance
Now that you know what you’re looking for as your ideal, consider what you’re willing or able to spend. Are you able to spring for a top-of-the-line custom that exactly meets your criteria, or do you need/want to look at standard commercial production models? With as many, many knives and tools as there are on the market today, chances are you can find a tool “off the shelf” that fits your purposes nicely. By carefully considering and referencing your list of prioritized criteria you may establish how best to maximize your performance per dollar spent. As with all expenses, there is a point of diminishing returns where each unit of increased performance begins to cost more and more, giving you less and less benefit. In a performance-optimized purchase every area of your criteria will be brought, in weighted proportion, as close to the point of diminishing returns as possible before any excess funds are spent on non-critical features.
Imagine, if you will, that much like in Step 3 you are assigning points to criteria of the tool. However, this time around you have to buy those points with dollars. In a given area of performance, the points per dollar will actually increase as you buy them–such as the first dollar buying you 1 point in that category, the next dollar spent in that category earning you 3 points, etc. until the points per dollar equalizes and then begins to diminish. That tipping point is your point of diminishing returns. Naturally your overall performance will therefore be very low if you sink all of your points into a single category and neglect others. However, if buying a non-custom tool, all of these points are already assigned for you and the total cost of those points is reflected in the purchase price. If buying a custom tool, by contrast, each point costs more because you are paying a premium for the privilege of being able to assign the points yourself with greater specificity. Research your options with diligence–the more choices you uncover the easier a time you will have in deciding on the best tool to purchase.
Step 6: Post-Purchase Reflection
The final step of the process. In spite of the fact that you have now purchased a tool, it must be acknowledged that this choice was made using your best judgment and experience at that one snapshot in time. Upon receipt of the tool, pay attention to how it functions for the intended tasks to either confirm or contradict the forecast you made of the tool’s performance. Depending on the tool there may be some learning curve involved, so reserve final judgment until you have become well familiar with it. Consciously think of how the balance of features could be further improved for your purposes. This information will add to your experiences and observations, allowing you to make better and more accurate forecasts in future purchases.
The scythe is a powerful, versatile, and useful tool for the mowing and removal of unwanted grasses, weeds, and young woody growth. Quiet and pleasant to use, the scythe provides numerous advantages over mechanical mowers and string trimmers, and is able to be used in many locations where mechanical mowers can not. Unlike the chopped clippings of mechanical mowers, which can cause colic, the clippings generated by a scythe may be used as useful forage for horses, rabbits, and other livestock.
If you are reading this guide chances are you have just purchased, are about to purchase, or already own an American pattern scythe and are curious about how to get the most out of this versatile tool. In this document we will cover how to identify parts of the scythe, select the best model for your uses, adjust the scythe to your body, describe proper technique, and how to keep your scythe in good operating condition so that it provides you with years or even generations of faithful service.
~Terminology~
To best understand the descriptions that follow in further sections it is important to become familiar with the parts of the tool. The following diagrams illustrate conventionally accepted nomenclature for the scythe and its components.
Snath: The “handle” of the scythe. Can be used to refer only to the shaft or to the entire assembly complete with hardware.
Nibs: The side-handles of the snath. Distinct from “grips” in that they encircle the snath rather than being bolted or mortised into it.
Nib Iron: The threaded rod of the nib, onto which the recessed nut in the grip is tightened.
Nib Bands: The steel bands of the nibs.
Nib Blocks: The iron or aluminum ferrule through which the nib bands are drawn when tightened.
Hafting Collar: The collar at the end of the snath through which the loop bolt passes.
Heel Plate: A plate with a hole or series of holes to seat the end of the blade tang. Often integral to the hafting collar. Also sometimes called the web, though this can be confused with the web of the blade.
Swing Socket: An alternative form of heel plate that pivots for an increased range of hang adjustment.
Tang: The “tail” of the blade which is used for mounting it to the snath.
Knob: The bent end of the tang that seats in the mounting plate. Historically sometimes called the “claw”.
Shank: The portion of the tang in line with the blade.
Elbow: The bend, turn, or crook of the tang.
Heel: The base of the blade, including the tang.
Beard: The base of the blade as it projects, drops, or flares from the tang.
Toe: The tip of the blade.
Edge: The sharpened region spanning between the beard and the toe of the blade.
Spine: The back of the blade.
Chine: The raised lip of the spine.
Crest: A raised ridge on the backside of the blade that supports the toe after the termination of the rib. Not present on all blades.
Rib: The large stiffening channel that runs along the spine of the blade.
Bead: One or more smaller stiffening channels that runs alongside the rib. Not present on all blades.
Web: The span of thin steel between the rib and the edge. Conceptually akin to the web of a duck’s foot rather than a spider web.
Heel Set: The orientation angle of the tang with the blade. A square heel is the most common, presenting a 90 degree bend at the shank. A half set heel has a slightly more open angle and a full set an even more so. Half set and full set are alternatively referred to as half mulay and full mulay.
Web Set: The relative positioning of the height of the blade web vs. the height of the spine. Half set is most common followed by full set and quarter set.
Hang: The angle of the blade when mounted on the snath.
Lift: The “pitch” of the tang from the plane of the blade. Most American blades came historically without any lift to the tang with the end user adjusting it to their taste. Sometimes called the “cray” or “tack” of the blade.
(Inverted) Crown: A gradual upward bend or “smile” of the blade along its length. A blade with less crown will yield a more even stubble, but a blade with more crown will more readily follow undulating terrain and cut into dips and hollows. If a blade bends downward or “frowns” (an “obverse crown”) this is the result of damage, and should be corrected before use.
~Fitting the Scythe to the Body~
The first important step to ensure success with the American scythe is to test-fit the snath to your body. Modern snaths produced by Seymour Manufacturing are sized to the average modern person, but some vintage snaths will be on the small side for the taller American of today. Fortunately, the first step of tuning your scythe is very simple and can be performed in the store from which you intend to make your purchase.
Adjusting the Nibs: First, check the nibs to make sure they rotate freely. The nut at the top of the nib typically runs on a left-directional thread, so rather than turning counter-clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten, as with a conventional thread, the nibs are loosened by turning them clockwise and tightened by turning them counter-clockwise. This is important to keep in mind, as you wish to avoid over-tightening the nibs, making them difficult to remove. Once the nibs have been loosened you may adjust them to their proper position for your height. Stand relaxed with your feet shoulder width apart and the scythe standing upright on its end next to you (blade end on the ground.) While standing thus, bring the upper nib to a level that fits snugly under the arm and tighten it gently in place. The lower nib is then set one cubit down from the upper nib–a measurement equal to the distance between the elbow and outstretched fingertips.
For tall persons (roughly 6ft and above) you can expect most American snaths to be too short for this method to work, but such snaths may still be fit to taller users with reasonably good results. You will want there to be roughly 4″ of shaft above the upper nib to support the heel of your palm. Set the upper nib at this maximum position, and then set the lower nib one cubit down from the upper. The upward lay of the blade will be compensated for later in the fitting process by adjusting the lift of the tang.
Once the proper distance has been set the scythe needs to be balanced by rotating the nibs into proper orientation. Re-assume a relaxed stance, holding the scythe loosely by its nibs with the blade wholly to your right as if beginning a stroke, and the blade resting on its spine. The natural balance of the blade on its spine will commonly be ⅓ the length of the blade from the heel and you will want the spine of the blade to rest on the ground somewhere between here and the midpoint of the blade. Adjust the rotation of the lower nib to a position somewhere between 8-10 o’clock and place the left hand so that it is capping the butt of the snath. When the lower nib is in the proper rotational position, the snath may be lifted from the ground by the nib without tipping left nor right. This balance may not always be possible with very long blades, but even in extreme cases the nose-heavy balance can be minimized. Once the horizontal balance is tuned, adjust the orientation of the upper nib to where you are most comfortably able to lift the blade off the ground by pushing down on the upper nib with the heel of your palm against the snath and allowing the lower nib to roll in your right hand as a pivot. You will likely find that rotating the upper nib between the 9-11 o’clock position is the most comfortable and advantageous, allowing the elbow and wrist to sit relaxed and close to the body.
This initial adjustment is all simply to get you in the ballpark for your particular scythe configuration, and you will likely find yourself making further adjustments while using the scythe for extended periods. Listen to the tool and it will tell you how it wants to be used. Don’t be afraid to experiment with your adjustments!
Selecting a Blade: The blade you choose is the next most important thing for you to consider after snath selection, and they generally come in variations on the following styles:
Grass blades: The most common variety. Typically long, thin, and light. The “run” of the blade (the tilt of the blade relative to the ground) tends to be either parallel to the ground or only slightly lifted. A blade of this style in medium length (around 30″) will usually be capable of handling everything from fine lush grasses to (with practice and prudence) heavier woody plants like goldenrod, burdock, and thistles, but they are more prone to damage than other varieties due to their light build and long blades, which can compound the leverage of a bad cut and damage either the blade or the snath. They are, however, both the most commonly available blade style as well as the most versatile. Experienced users will typically use grass blades for the majority of their tasks. The heel of the blade should be wider than the thickest stalks being cut, so “Dutch” (wide) heels are preferred if the local vegetation includes thick-stemmed plants.
Weed Blades: These blades are similar to grass blades, but are usually used with a slightly upward lay and have a slightly broader, more robust build. These blades are well suited to handling the weedy overgrowth mixed with occasional woody plants that commonly occurs in neglected areas. The slight upward run of the blade helps reduce strain on the snath when running into unexpected woody plants, avoids cutting into small hillocks, and helps cut diagonally across the grain of resistant stalks at the expense of not leaving as low or level of a cut. Their shorter length assists with navigating the blade and reduces the tendency to snag, and the broad web easily cuts the full diameter of thick-stemmed weeds like burdock and thistle.
Bush blades: These blades are shorter and heavier, with a much broader blade, and are intended for clearing young woody growth ranging from goldenrod, burdock, and thistles up through very young green saplings. They are robust in the spine and are used with a steep upward run to allow the edge to cut with an upward shearing stroke along the grain of growth. These are generally best reserved for dedicated removal of woody material as they are more heavily built than a short grass blade.
Bramble blades: These blades are typically quite short and are used with the tang left flat. They are reserved for clearing woody-stemmed thickets and thorny bushes (such as raspberries.) They are not recommended for anyone not performing a similar task, as they are a purpose-built blade style that is not well-suited for general mowing duties. They are often narrow in the heel and with heavy curvature well suited to a backward stroke. The overall build is usually lighter than found on common bush blades, being somewhere between a grass blade and weed blade in thickness and width.
Trimming Blades: Ranging from about 12″ to 18″ in length and built like a grass blade, trimming blades are excellent for use in areas where a grass hook would otherwise be needed, such as confined spaces, and are good for trimming along foundations, cleaning up around stones or posts, the bases of trees, or other obstructions.
Hybrid tensioned blades: These are lightweight European-style blades manufactured with an American-style tapered tang, and are intended for use on American scythe snaths. The hybrid style is maintained like a conventional European blade but is curved in a way that is compatible with the American snath and strokes.
Mounting & Adjusting the Blade: Once a blade is selected, the attachment process will depend on the mounting hardware used by the snath but most, including all present Seymour models, make use of a loop bolt through which the tang is passed, and a series of holes for receiving the bent end (knob) of the tang. These are used for adjusting the hafting angle, or “hang”, of the blade, allowing you to make the angle more open or closed. A more closed angle is generally recommended as it minimizes strain on the blade and snath and cuts more aggressively though it narrows the swath of the cut. An open angle is used in fine grasses and clear ground, and is advantageous when clearing a large area as it maximizes the reach of the blade. This works best with blades that have a strong curve at the heel, as it does well to aggressively finish off any stray stalks that were not cut by the more gentle, stroke of an open-hung blade. The more open the hang, the greater the degree of pull that will be experienced through the cut–another reason why a closed hang is best in tough or dense growth.
The orientation of the tang with regards to the blade is known as the “set”, making the natural hang of the blade more open or closed. While most are “square set” one may find examples of “half set” or full-blown “open set” and these were intended for specially curved “mulay” and “Dutch-bend” snaths. Some loop bolts pass through the wood at the end of the snath and cannot be tightened beyond a certain point. In cases where clamping ability is insufficient to hold a thin-tanged blade, a heavy patch of oiled leather or rubber (a cut piece of vinyl hose works well) may be inserted between the loop bolt of the collar and the blade tang to provide a more secure fit and prevent wear on the parts.
How the blade is angled in relation to the ground is known as the lay. The lay of the blade will depend on a few factors, including the height of the user, the curvature of the snath, and the angle of the tang. Of these factors, the angle of the tang (the “lift”) is the one most practical to adjust. This can be done by firmly locking the heel of the blade in a vise, heating the shank of the tang with a induction heater or oxy-acetylene torch, and using a bending fork to apply leverage. If a proper blacksmith’s style bending fork is unavailable, a rebar bending tool or large smooth-jaw automotive/monkey wrench may be used, or a suitably large and sturdy pipe slipped over the tang (though this does not control the bend as well as a wrench.) If this is done, a wet towel should be wrapped around the blade to prevent overheating of the edge, as this would damage its heat treatment. While at red heat the tang may then be bent to the proper angle for its intended snath, user, and task. Be sure to allow the heated region to slowly air cool–do not quench it with water, as this would make the tang brittle and likely to snap in use. Exercise extreme caution in the performance of this task, as both the torch and heated tang present potential fire and burn risks if performed without proper safety precautions. If the blade is improperly clamped or the tang insufficiently heated you run the risk of cracking the web when attempting the bend. The below diagram shows one of several ways to securely clamp the blade in a vise so that the web of the blade is not stressed during bending. If you have them, aluminum vise jaw pads can enable you to grip the blade by the rib up against the junction with the tang, which may provide the best leverage.
Clamping the Blade in a Vise for Adjusting the Tang
For a more in-depth explanation of how to bend the tang, including video of the process, see this detailed overview. If heating a tang in a traditional coal forge, a potato can be placed on the heel of the blade to act as a damp insulator against the coals, but it does not sufficiently protect against heat migration through the blade itself, so do your best to work quickly. When torch- of induction-heating an even better alternative to a wet rag is a saturated wool felt block. Inexpensive, thick wool felt pads are available widely as needle felting pads, and they are highly heat resistant. Cut one of these into strips about an inch wide, and a lengthwise slit may be made in one, like a hotdog bun. When fully saturated with water, it may be placed over the edge and the natural wicking action will draw more water to the heat once it begins reaching the heel of the blade from the heated shank, preventing further heat migration. Once bent, one of the solid blocks can be rested on the web of the heel as the blade air-cools.
When a scythe is properly adjusted (including the lift of the tang) the edge of a grass blade should lay with about a finger’s thickness from the ground. As the proper lift of the tang is slightly less for weed blades, this measurement should be slightly greater on a blade intended for weed use or in rough ground. Bush blades require little or no pitch at all due to their upward pulling stroke. Bear in mind when adjusting your angle that wider blades will typically require a stronger bend to achieve the same edge elevation as a narrower one.
~Use of the Scythe~
The various strokes of the American scythe can be isolated into three regions of the body: the legs, the torso, and the arms. These three zones of the body are used varyingly in different circumstances according to specific mowing conditions. During mowing the lower nib acts as a pivot point while the left hand provides the drawing action of the stroke. This is the reason why the threads on nibs are reverse-directional. As the most resistance would be experienced as the cut is executed (rather than on the return stroke) it prevents the nibs from being inadvertently loosened. Many well-used snaths develop a high polish on their nibs from this pivoting action, and it makes them a pleasure to use. You may hasten the process with a fine sanding and light oiling of the wood.
Grip: A common mistake many beginners make is thinking that the grips of the nibs are meant to be held in a simple “hammer fist” hold, which isn’t ergonomic and often leads to an overly tight grip. While such a grip may sometimes be used, at least one hand should generally be grasping the snath with the heel of the palm against the shaft, and the knuckles forming a diagonal line towards the grip, with the forefinger and thumb extended and the other fingers wrapped around, causing the hands to form a◿ and ◺ respectively, almost like holding the classic “10 and 2” positions on a steering wheel. The heel-braced spanning grip allows you to comfortably and stably hold the scythe to manipulate its movement in space, including shifting your grip by degrees to alter its presentation to the stroke. Experiment with your holds to find the combination that works best for you in any given circumstance!
A proper hold on an American scythe nib.
Core Technique: The motion of the arms is most easily described as being somewhat similar to the operation of the oar on a rowboat with the oarlock being the lower nib. The approach to the cut is “opened” as the right foot steps forward and the majority of one’s weight placed over it. The arms open towards the target with the left arm traveling furthest, and the point is brought to bear on the start of the swath, with the heel of the blade very slightly raised as the blade “toes in”. Upon the full opening of the swing and nearly all weight being brought to bear on the right foot, the weight of the body is shifted left in an almost falling motion as the the left foot is extended forward and the cut closed with a pulling motion primarily actuated by the left hand. As the cut is executed the heel finishes low, completing the slight lateral rock or “scoop” to the cut. This compensates for the presentation of the blade by maintaining the the edge at a fairly constant height relative to the target. The appearance of the technique in action resembles a faltering shuffle due to the forward/back shift of balance. The rib of the blade rides the ground during the entire length of the stroke, giving a uniform, low cut and relieving the body of the weight of the scythe.
The Motions of a Standard Stroke
A beginner may experience some mild muscle soreness initially due to the specialized muscle groups employed to use the scythe. This is to be expected and will quickly pass as those muscles grow accustomed to the task. Fatigue then becomes a minimal concern, as most of the work is done by the momentum generated by the shifting of balance and the pendulum action of scythe. When the motion of the body and the forces acting on the scythe are properly in balance the only force necessary beyond the natural action of gravity is the minimal effort required to keep the action in motion and to support the scythe itself. As the weight of the scythe rests on the ground during most strokes, the greatest energy expenditure usually stems from carrying the cut vegetation from the swath.
While the above provides a general overview of core technique, the mowing conditions and blade/snath configuration will call for adaptations of your technique for peak performance. The following examples illustrate how to adapt both the scythe and your technique to the mowing conditions at hand. While preferred nib settings are mentioned, they may be left in standard adjustment without negative effect.
Lawn Care: To best produce a close-cropped stubble closely resembling that of a mechanical mower, either a hybrid blade may be used or a grass blade with the tang strongly pitched to bring the lay of the blade parallel with the ground. A gentle downward pressure may be applied to the lower nib during the cut. Both the trunk of the body and the arms will provide the action, with the cut opening wide to about the 3 to 4 o’clock position and closing at the 9-8 o’clock position. Be mindful of how the toe of the blade enters the cut and keep the heel down. The tension created by the body and arms opening the cut will be released like a coil spring to close the cut, with the arm motion of the core technique being combined with a pronounced rotation of the torso. A fairly broad swath will be cut in this manner, and very close to the ground, but this method is best reserved for the smooth relatively unrestricted spaces and light thin grasses of lawns and will not fare well on bumpier ground or in tall growth.
Uneven Ground and/or Mixed Weedy Growth: The core technique will function well for much of the mowing, but resistant weedy patches or navigating depressions and hillocks can benefit from a short and shearing stroke with a lift at the end. Move the right hand across the body while rapidly drawing the left hand back and up. This will resemble a sharp sweeping motion, like flicking dust with a broom, and will provide a strong cut to a small and controlled space while either matching the slope of a hillock or interior of a depression, or cut diagonally across the grain of stemmy weeds. A grass blade or a weed blade may be employed depending on the mowing conditions of the site. A blade with a pronounced crown can be useful for getting into depressions.
The Motions of a Weed-Cutting Stroke
Dense Woody-Stemmed Growth: For dense patches of green woody growth employ a bush blade and set your nibs 1 to 3 inches closer together than your standard cubit measure. A “ripping” stroke up and back is used, almost like pulling the ripcord of a two-stroke engine or pulling a plant from the ground by its roots. This stroke is used to cut diagonally across the stems of the growth. Be sure to still close your cut properly in spite of the short length of the stroke–you want the edge to glide through your target rather than pull or chop through it. A very closed hang is recommended, and the bulk of the force from the stroke should be delivered with the heel of the blade. You will wish to avoid percussive force or overly thick targets as this can result in damage to the snath. A bush blade can make for very rapid and comfortable thicket clearing, but it makes a poor machete! If total eradication of these plants is desired you may follow up the clearing work by chopping the remaining root mass with a grub hoe or mattock. Since the freshly cut woody stems will be at a sharp angle, a second stroke at a lower presentation to pare the tops flat can be beneficial.
The Motions of a Bush-Cutting Stroke
These are just a few of the challenging mowing conditions that a user can potentially face, but by reading the land and “listening” to the tool you will quickly become proficient at adapting your technique.
~Sharpening & Maintenance~
In order to provide proper performance the blade must be kept as sharp and as thin in the edge as possible. The edge as it comes from the factory will require additional sharpening in order to be made ready to mow. While this was traditionally done using a relatively fine large-diameter water cooled grindstone, these are not commonly available to most individuals today. It is inadvisable to use a bench grinder for this work as the coarse wheels and high speed risk damaging or ruining the blade. A smooth-cut half round file or a coarse synthetic sharpening stone may be used instead. Belt sanders with sharpening-grade belts may be used for initial edge thinning if available, but extreme caution should be exercised as it is very easy to damage a blade if inexperienced. As a result power equipment should be avoided unless very familiar with its use. An excellent low-cost power grinding option is our specially formulated grinding points, which are designed to minimize heat buildup and can be chucked up in a common electric hand drill.
Sharpen the edge at an angle of about 7-9° per side. Examine the edge periodically by holding the blade edge-up under a bright light. Any spots where light is able to reflect off of the edge are dull and require additional sharpening. Once all such spots are removed the edge may then be refined by honing with a fine stone, ceramic rod, or other fine sharpening tool like a diamond or fine-cut conventional butcher’s steel. Our preferred style of sharpener is a canoe-shaped scythe stone, as it is capable of maintaining a lower angle than the American pattern scythe stone, and we recommend a combination of our Bull Thistle and Arctic Fox models to be used in tandem. However, a canoe-shaped stone requires a rolling action of the wrist to hold a consistent angle, and the faster speed and greater ease of holding a consistent angle makes the American pattern better suited to beginners, as well as being the most suitable shape for maintaining grass hooks, billhooks, bush hooks, and other miscellaneous forward-curving agricultural cutting tools that have tighter curves than scythe blades. When finished the edge should cleanly slice copy paper. Be sure to remove any burr that may develop, as this creates an artificial flattening of the edge that will prevent it from cutting properly. If a burr must be present it should be hooked upward rather than downward.
The edge may be finished by stropping with a wooden “whipping stick” to draw out any microscopic burr that remains, and may be used as the finest honing method in routine maintenance until the edge no longer responds as strongly as needed to the stick.
As a blade wears over time and becomes more narrow it may eventually become necessary to grind and sharpen the blade with the stone making contact against the underside of the rib and the top of the chine in order to maintain a sufficiently thin edge angle. This should be avoided as long as possible, however, to avoid excessive grinding causing the rib to be worn through. Most users will never use their blades to the point where contact grinding is required.
How a Blade Wears Through Grinding
Touch ups in the field are typically not required with great frequency unless the blade is run through dirt or strikes a stone, but if cutting performance noticeably decreases while mowing it is best to hone the edge with a whipping stick and a fine stone. When doing so one should stand the scythe on its small end and grasp the base of the blade firmly while making slow, and deliberate strokes on both sides of the blade. Work as slowly and carefully as necessary to produce a uniform and fine edge angle. When first starting off do not be tempted to mimic the rapid motions displayed by experienced scythe operators–until proficiency at a slow and deliberate pace is achieved speed will do nothing but produce a poor and rounded edge that takes many strokes to correct.
Keep all moving steel and iron components regularly oiled or waxed to prevent rusting and seizing. After use wipe the blade down with a dry rag to remove excess moisture. Any light to moderate rust may be easily and gently removed by the use of steel wool. Oiling the blade is usually not especially necessary so long as it isn’t put away wet. Any light surface rust will typically wear off in a mowing session due to the combined action of the weak acids of plant juices and the scrub brush-like effect of the cut stalks against the steel.
Adjusting the nib bands: Nibs may need their bands adjusted for a number of reasons, including shrinkage or crushing of the snath from age or use or a tall individual needing to move the nibs higher up on the tapered snath than their typically anticipated adjustment range. To do this, remove the nib from the snath and remove the wooden grip and aluminum block, leaving only the band and attached threaded rod. The best method for adjusting the shape of the band uses an anvil, although a vise and some ingenuity can get the job done well. Stand the loop on a flat anvil surface so that the shoulder of the loop’s teardrop shape is presented vertically (the threaded rod portion will likely be angled at about 45 degrees when this is done properly) and use controlled blows from a cross-pein or ball-pein hammer against the shoulder of the loop to draw the relaxed form of the band into a more closed position. Repeat on the opposite shoulder.
Tightening A Nib Band
If the loop is knocked “out of round” you may tap it back into true round form either by sliding it onto the long tapered horn of a stake anvil, or if one is not available to you, you may insert the threaded rod into the hardy hole or pritchel hole of a conventional anvil or into a length of narrow pipe so that a direct blow may be placed on the center of the loop to compress it without damaging the threads of the rod. Once the desired interior diameter is reached, test the fit by reassembling the nib on the snath in its desired new location, and perform any other adjustments as necessary to eliminate visible gaps between the band and the snath. There should be a slight opening to the top of the teardrop shape of the band so that it has room to cinch tighter when drawn into the mouth of the nib block.
Using the Pritchel Hole to True a Nib Band
Using the Horn of a Stake Anvil to True a Nib Band
Storage & Transport: When not using your scythe, proper storage will keep it out of the way and safe until needed again. The simplest method, if possible to do so, is to simply hook the blade over a wooden rafter close to the wall in a garage or barn. The wood of the rafter will not damage the edge and the unit hangs ready to grab when needed.
Hanging a Scythe from a Rafter
By placing the scythe near a wall accidental bumps or knocks are prevented. If a rafter is not available a long stout nail may be substituted and the scythe hung by the shank of the blade’s tang. The beard of the blade and the end of the snath serve to create a notch that securely straddles the nail. If neither is possible or practical it is recommended to dismount the blade from the snath to keep it out of harm’s way. The snath may then be stood upright along a wall, in a corner, or on a long-handled tool rack and the blade oiled and stored in a safe location. A simple blade cover may be easily fashioned using cardboard and packing tape, which will protect the blade against accidental bumps and prevent the keen edge from causing accidental injury.
When taking a respite from active mowing, if possible, hang the scythe from a tree branch or stand the scythe on its small end against a stable object (such as a fencepost or sapling) so that the blade is uppermost and clearly visible. If no place is available where the scythe may be placed in this manner, keep it close to your person as possible with the edge in a safe and controllable position. A convenient and typically safe place to lay a scythe is with the blade tucked into the uncut grass where mowing was ceased, as others are unlikely to run into the unmown growth. When walking with the scythe it is preferred to carry it by the right hand nib with the snath nestled in the crook of the arm, blade end up, and with the toe of the blade facing directly forward. This provides visibility and control during foot travel to prevent accidental damage to the tool or injury to the self or others.
Safely Carrying A Scythe
If performing mowing service for others or attending scything events it may be necessary to travel with your scythe in a motor vehicle. In these instances it is recommended to dismount the blade from the snath and place it in a cardboard cover for safety. The snath may often then fit in the trunk of a car, but if not it may be easily transported in the cab of the vehicle. It is recommended to put together a small travel kit comprised of an adjustable wrench, oil, a dry clean rag, and a sharpening tool of your choice for edge restoration and maintenance.
~Restoration~
This section is a work in progress — please pardon its incomplete nature as we chip away at it!
Among the first observations that any newcomer to scything will make is that buying new seems expensive. After all, countless old scythes abound at antique shops, flea markets, yard sales, and online auction sites, and at a fraction of the cost of a new unit. However, while this is certainly a way to save money, it also often brings the buyer tremendous frustration unless they already possess a certain set of skills and tools and can greatly delay the speed with which basic proficiency is gained. Let the techniques here illustrate the labor, skills, and tools needed for a basic, functional restoration of both scythe and snath, and identifying the chief condition issues to be wary of when selecting good candidates for restoration.
Common Condition Issues: Every antique requires at least some degree of work before it is ready to be pressed back into service. To get an idea of what you are looking to get yourself into, a prospective antique must be thoroughly examined to note its condition.
Blades are often bent, twisted, or warped. Often this is a sign that the blade is laminated construction, as being comprised mostly of iron, the metal is more prone to taking a set when bent rather than springing back true. Fortunately most damage of this kind may be undone with careful cold work.
A “frowning” blade that has developed a rainbow-like curve from misuse may be brought back to straight with blows on the broad face of an anvil. Laying the rib across the anvil face, blows of a cross pein or similar heavy hammer may be applied to the top of the rib to straighten the blade or apply a slight inverted crown or “smile” to the blade according to the intended mowing context. If a smile is introduced, ensure it is even along its length, such that the heel and toe rise by roughly the same amount in use. The blade may be flipped and the underside of the rib struck to straighten out any over-corrections.
Twists may be removed by identifying the starting position of the twist and locking the blade in a vice at that point. An agricultural (“monkey” or Coe’s patent) wrench or auto wrench with fixed top jaw may be used to effectively grip the web, spine, or tang of the blade and apply a twisting or prising force to straighten the blade. As a twist is removed, reexamine the blade to see if a new clamping position is needed to complete the work best. Be as gentle and smooth as possible in your application of force. Jerking forces are more likely to introduce cracks or slip dangerously.
~~To be Continued
Appendix A: Notable Makers
This section is a work in progress. Please pardon its lack of completion at this time.
Snaths
Derby & Ball: The largest and best snath manufacturer. Many fine snaths were made by many fine companies, but Derby & Ball ranks consistently highest overall. Founded in 1851 in Springfield, Vermont by Franklin P. Ball as the Vermont Snath Company, he partnered with Pinckney Frost in 1852, forming Frost, Ball & Co. Five years later in 1857, Pinckney–an avid inventor in the realm of scythes and snaths alike–entered into independent partnership with Alfred Derby in Bellows Falls as Frost, Derby & Co. When Ball’s workshop burned in 1882, he joined on with Franklin P. Ball’s endeavors in Bellows Falls, forming Derby & Ball. In 1920 they relocated to Waterbury, Vermont to merge with Edwards & Edwards as the Derby, Ball & Edwards Corporation. In 1933 the name was reverted to Derby & Ball, Inc. and the company produced snaths under that name up into the 1960’s, and most surviving snaths bearing their name date to within this period. In 1933, due to the general decline in demand for scythe snaths, they branched out into the production of baseball bats, and produced them until 1938. Skis were introduced into their diversification plans in 1934, and they were produced continuously until the company’s eventual closure, even securing production contracts for the military in that regard.
Derby & Ball’s standard snaths were produced in the typical white ash wood, but premium grass snaths were offered in black cherry, which was prized for its lightness and ability to take a good bend, despite its comparatively lower strength. They were the owners of many patents related to snath manufacture, including Frost’s invention of the loop bolt fastening. Their swing socket heel plates were the first of their kind on the market, and underwent several notable changes over the decades, that hardware being present on their No. 50 snaths — a common but excellent grass snath the number for which was copied in later years by other manufacturers producing their own takes on the swing socket. In 1909 Derby & Ball were reportedly making between 175,000 and 200,000 snaths annually.
Dominion Snath Co.: A member of the Ball family, Joseph Rice Ball, founded the Dominion Snath Company in 1880 in Sherbrooke, Quebec, before moving shop to Waterville, Quebec ten years later, where they produced snaths, rakes, and other wooden articles, such as ironing boards, up through the 1960’s. Their snaths greatly resemble Derby & Ball’s, though with subtle differences such as collars made by bending and welding a piece of mild steel bar with the ends dovetailed into one another.
Sta-Tite Snath Co.: Founded in 1928 in Shelbyville, Indiana by Reuben “Ruby” Peter Stine with backing by Brigadier General Daniel Wray DePrez. However, Mr. Stine submitted a patent application for a ring snath fastening–invented by John W. Boren–in 1924, and which was approved and assigned to him in 1926, and Stine may have been engaged in the manufacture of snaths as early as 1921. The Sta-Tite factory was built on a site once occupied by the Fame Canning Company, and engaged in the manufacture of not only snaths, but also pallets, crating, corn cribs, and other related wooden products. Mr. Stine died in 1935 of heart disease, and DePrez took over as company president. Sta-Tite is most notable for their No.300 ring-fastened snath and No.50~I.B.S. “Improved Back-Saver” models, but also produced snaths under the SUCCESS and SUPREME brand names. The company was in operation up until at least the early 1980’s.
Seymour Manufacturing: Founded by ten citizens of Seymour, Indiana on April 18, 1872 under its first president, F. M. Swope, who was involved with several other business firms at the time. By 1885, Swope was the only remaining of the original founding members. The company was founded in part due to prison labor reforms, having acquired a factory once run by the Indiana State Prison in Jeffersonville, Indiana almost immediately after it ceased operation. Prison labor had been formerly used extensively for the manufacture of wagon spokes and scythe snaths, chiefly in the labor-intensive work of returning the steam bent staves to a true round taper after removing delaminations and cracks from the bending process. The practice of using free labor continued in some states, most notably Michigan, and in 1887, Seymour president Julius C. Birge signed on as a member of the National Anti-Convict-Contract Association in opposition to the convict labor contracts held in Michigan by the Withington-Cooley Manufacturing Company, which was also involved substantially in the manufacture of snaths, hoes, and other hand agricultural tools, their main manufacturing facilities being located within the Michigan State Prison in Jackson, Michigan.
In the 1940’s Seymour Manufacturing expanded their production into other forms of agricultural hand tools in response to the decline in demand for snaths after the widespread adoption of improved mowing equipment in the decades prior, and added hog rings, shovels, post hole diggers, and other assorted hand tools to their offerings. This diversification allowed Seymour to weather the financial storm that took out large snath makers like Derby & Ball, as they were less reliant on snaths as their means of income.
In 2012 Seymour was acquired by Midwest Rake, forming Seymour-Midwest. Their current snath equipment is 1930’s vintage and still in operation. In 2020 Seymour encountered issues sourcing the river-reclaimed sunken ash they used for their snaths (due to its reduced failure rate in bending compared to other sources) and No.1 snaths were unable to be produced as a result. The following year, a log was found, but was unable to be retrieved due to the conditions surrounding the banks of the river where the log was located preventing the use of extraction equipment. The season following that, Seymour attempted to bend 60 staves made from standard lumber, much of which was standing dead due to the prevalence of the emerald ash borer decimating the local ash population. The dryness of the wood reduced the responsiveness to steaming and bending, and only 5 of those staves survived the process, and in markedly poorer condition than the norm, but we were happy to receive them. The following season there were no further wooden snaths made, and investigations into soaking tanks and alternative wood sources were instigated. In 2025, fortunately, a new source of sunken ash was located out of state, and production was able to resume.
They are one of only two manufacturers of aluminum snaths that we are aware of, the other being the now-defunct H&T Manufacturing (owned in the 1940’s by Milo Troyer, a high school civics and chemistry teacher) of Albion, Indiana, which also produced iron snaths. Of the two, the Seymours are superior in both form and function, and continue to be made today.
Brinser/Eastern Handle Co.:Coming soon.
Blades
North Wayne Tool Co.
Dunn Edged Tool Co.
Emerson & Stevens
Rixford Manufacturing
David Wadsworth & Son
Isaiah Blood
True Temper/Kelly/American Fork & Hoe
Sibley Scythe Co.
Bartlett All-Steel Scythe Co.: The ONLY manufacturer of stamped American blades in history, to the best of our knowledge, other than the American Steel Scythe Co. that licensed their patent and produced nearly identical models in the same state. We have seen one single example of a blade made in a similar style but slightly different tooling indicators and form with “K.A.M. Co.” on the tang, but have so far been unable to locate information about the maker. More information to come.
Igelfors Liefabrik
Redtenbacher
There was never a sound beside the wood but one,
And that was my long scythe whispering to the ground.
What was it it whispered? I knew not well myself;
Perhaps it was something about the heat of the sun,
Something, perhaps, about the lack of sound—
And that was why it whispered and did not speak.
It was no dream of the gift of idle hours,
Or easy gold at the hand of fay or elf:
Anything more than the truth would have seemed too weak
To the earnest love that laid the swale in rows,
Not without feeble-pointed spikes of flowers
(Pale orchises), and scared a bright green snake.
The fact is the sweetest dream that labor knows.
My long scythe whispered and left the hay to make.
~Robert Frost
A collection of writings on edged tools from the folks at Baryonyx Knife Co.
